{"id":114981,"date":"2025-12-15T08:36:04","date_gmt":"2025-12-15T15:36:04","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.craftbeer.com\/?p=114981"},"modified":"2025-12-15T08:36:07","modified_gmt":"2025-12-15T15:36:07","slug":"finding-beervana-in-portland-oregon","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.craftbeer.com\/full-pour\/finding-beervana-in-portland-oregon","title":{"rendered":"Finding Beervana in Portland, Oregon"},"content":{"rendered":"

It\u2019s a Tuesday night in early October. I\u2019m at Grand Fir Brewing<\/a>, a Southeast Portland, Ore., brewpub with a d\u00e9cor of wood, rustic steel, and a warmth that embodies the hip-meets-historic vibe of its Buckman neighborhood. Well, that\u2019s the bustling taproom, anyway.<\/p>\n

At the moment, I\u2019m backstage, down a long hallway at the building\u2019s industrial rear, behind a nondescript door in a windowless room that more closely resembles a secret hunting lodge. I\u2019m leaning on an actual barrel head, sipping festbier, a golden German lager, by candlelight staring at a taxidermied rattlesnake in the lamplit shadow of a majestic stag\u2019s head.<\/p>\n

This is The Bitterroot Club<\/a>, Grand Fir\u2019s weekly supper club where the brewery\u2019s co-owner, Doug Adams, flashes the culinary skills that made him a Top Chef finalist and semifinalist for the James Beard Rising Star Award. The prix fixe menu features seasonal and locally sourced ingredients paired with the beer crafted by his co-owner and wife.<\/p>\n

Whitney (Burnside) Adams is a pedigreed vet of the Northwestern beer scene, including jobs at Portland pillar Upright Brewing, Seattle\u2019s Elysian, and brewmaster at regional powerhouse 10 Barrel Brewing Company. Tonight, I\u2019ll be pairing her aforementioned bready Tamarack Fest festbier with Doug\u2019s Columbia king salmon with lemon, fig, and basil, adding some malty sweetness to the rich, savory fish. Next, a charcoal-grilled porkchop with Nardello peppers and hazelnuts provides a salty smokiness that is cut nicely by a crisp and clean-finishing Bandit Run Mosaic American IPA. And then a light-bodied, citrusy Fresh Hop Strata complements lemon buttermilk pie for dessert.<\/p>\n

The Bitterroot Club is certainly a premium attraction (the prepaid reservation is $135 per person), but it\u2019s also an extension of the Adamses\u2019 ethos when they opened Grand Fir in November 2022. Even the regular brewpub menu features artistic twists such as jalape\u00f1o Old Bay tartar on a shrimp roll, garlic buffalo sauce on a fried chicken sandwich, and caramelized onions on the wildly popular double-patty Grand Fir Burger. \u201cThe word \u2018elevated\u2019 has been overused a lot, but it does suit us,\u201d says Whitney. \u201cWe wanted people to not only get the experience of my beer, but to use Doug\u2019s background to create an equally good food experience. I felt that if I were to just open up a brewery, I honestly don\u2019t think it would make it. You need a certain angle these days to be successful.\u201d<\/p>\n

This, of course, is a common refrain from brewers all over the country, scurrying to attract on-premises patrons in a shrinking marketplace. But for a bona fide brewing badass such as Whitney to say this is more than modesty or even a reflection of the nationwide post-pandemic struggles. Yes, brewers across the country are transforming their spaces, installing dog parks and arcades and pickleball courts to bring people in and maintain a foothold in an increasingly slippery marketplace. But while Portland has certainly not been untouched by economic woes and shifting tastes, in this city and this state, the issue is less that there are fewer beer drinkers than that the drinkers here are more discerning. After all: This is Beervana.<\/p>\n

\"woman<\/figure>\n

A Love for Beer<\/h2>\n

\u201cThere\u2019s a special relationship between brewers and drinkers in Oregon and Portland in particular,\u201d says Ben Edmunds, brewmaster at Breakside Brewing<\/a>. \u201cThere are consumer expectations. People feel like they can find good beer everywhere here.\u201d<\/p>\n

They certainly can. In just two days there, I bounced from world-class brewery to world-class brewery, each with its own distinctive personality. There was the lager-centric Wayfinder<\/a> slinging the Cold IPAs (brewed with lager yeast) it helped popularize; the heavy metal hazy house of Brujos Brewing<\/a>; the more experimental hipster hangout Living H\u00e4us Beer Company<\/a>; the standard-setter for the citrusy-piney Northwest-style IPA, Breakside Brewery; Portland-born regional pastry sour powerhouse Great Notion<\/a>; and longtime local-turned-national stalwart Deschutes<\/a>, which has recently invested heavily in meticulous NA versions of its core beers like Black Butte Porter and Fresh Squeezed IPA. There are so many more amazing places that I just didn\u2019t have time to make it to.<\/p>\n

\n
\"Brujos<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

\u201cPeople here are passionate, they\u2019re fans. They have a good pulse on what\u2019s happening with each brewery,\u201d says Whitney Adams. \u201cI feel like we have a savvier group of beer drinkers here, too. That\u2019s what holds us together. It\u2019s not just the brewers themselves; it\u2019s the customer base. It\u2019s the love we all share for beer.\u201d<\/p>\n

Portland’s long affinity for craft beer makes perfect sense when one considers the proximity of the fields of the Willamette Valley, home to some of the world’s most coveted hops. The valley sits not too far from Yakima, Wash., the birthplace of Bert Grant’s hop-packed American IPA, the beer that still defines craft in the U.S. But according to at least one PDX beer luminary, the city is a haven for independent beermakers as much because of the roots that didn\u2019t grow in its silty clay soil.<\/p>\n

\u201cThe area is really geographically isolated, so Miller and Budweiser have always had a minor presence up here,\u201d says Van Havig, master brewer at Gigantic Brewing<\/a>, which he co-founded with Ben Love in 2012. Havig says that because Big Beer never bothered the early brewpubs and local distributors in Portland, they were left to dominate the local market. \u201cNo one uses the term \u2018craft beer\u2019 or \u2018microbrew\u2019 in Portland,\u201d he says. \u201cHere, it\u2019s just beer.\u201d<\/p>\n

Havig had attended Portland\u2019s Reed College between 1988 and 1992, witnessing the dawn of brewpub culture in the city before moving to Minneapolis, where, after dropping out of a PhD program in economics, he started brewing commercially himself. (In fact, the term \u201cBeervana\u201d in reference to Portland\u2019s budding brewing culture was first coined by Willamette Week<\/em><\/a>, a local alt-weekly, in 1994.)<\/p>\n

Havig returned to PDX in 2000 to head up the city\u2019s Rock Bottom Brewery, an experience he remembers as \u201cintimidating.\u201d \u201cIt was like walking into the big leagues,\u201d says Havig. \u201cPortland in the 2000s was the most developed craft market in the country. Where\u2019s the center of the craft beer world? Other places, like Colorado, have relevance. But it\u2019s Portland\u2014it\u2019s always been Portland.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"three<\/figure>\n

Expanding Palates<\/h2>\n

It wasn\u2019t just taprooms and brewpubs. Havig remembers that someone could walk into the most squalid-looking dive bar and find a tap of Pabst Blue Ribbon ironically standing beside five or six local brews. In fact, he remembers six omnipresent labels that spanned the spectrum of styles: Widmer Brothers\u2019 Hefe, Deschutes\u2019 Mirror Pond Pale Ale and Black Butte Porter, Portland Brewing\u2019s MacTarnahan\u2019s Amber Ale, Full Sail Brewing<\/a>\u2019s Amber Ale, and BridgePort Brewing Co.\u2019s iconic India Pale Ale.             <\/p>\n

\n
\"Full<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

The latter, a blast of citrus, floral, straw grass, and a touch of pine from five local hop varietals, was introduced in 1996. It quickly became one of the templates for what came to be known as the Northwest-style IPA\u2014a brash, in-your-face hop bomb that, back then, flummoxed outsiders, included Havig\u2019s regional manager.<\/p>\n

\u201cIt was 2006 or 2007, and we and Seattle were the only Rock Bottoms with an IPA on tap,\u201d he remembers. \u201cThe manager was like, \u2018This is really aggressive.\u2019 I told him, \u2018I understand your concerns, but you need to understand that you are somewhere different now.\u2019\u201d<\/p>\n

By the turn of the 2010s, Portland palates had expanded beyond the standard IPA. Havig and Love opened Gigantic in 2012, providing the in-demand hop-forward ales, but also trying to stay slightly ahead of the curve with Belgian ales, lagers, and wild inventions such as a pink beer with Japanese black rice and plums. \u201cYou could make anything, and it would sell,\u201d he says. \u201cYou could make a smoked hefeweizen and sell 135 barrels. People here were super experimental.\u201d<\/p>\n

The way Portlanders drank was shifting, too. Beyond the basic dichotomy of traditional brewpubs and straightforward production breweries, specialized beer bars began popping up, and breweries found they could combine distribution (exceeding 10,000 barrels) with a taproom that could grow the brand while allowing eager patrons to drink from the source. By the mid-2010s, grocery stores and even convenience stores tapped into the zeitgeist.<\/p>\n

\u201cThere was a real growler phenomenon,\u201d says Edmunds, who moved to Portland in 2007 before helping found Breakside Brewing three years later. \u201cThere were dedicated beer shops and every gas station and grocery store put in a draft tower and added a bar. The creation of all that new draft real estate provided a once-in-a-generation opportunity for new and small breweries.\u201d<\/p>\n

Meanwhile, Breakside and Gigantic and the slew of new breweries that would emerge over the next 10 years kept pushing experimentation. For tipplers tired of ambers, porters, and even (gasp) maybe a little embittered with NW IPAs, they began barrel-aging programs, launched kettle and pastry sours, and started dry-hopping their IPAs to unlock flavors beyond pine and grapefruit.<\/p>\n

The continued innovation has been driven in part by the only trend Portland has seemingly been behind on: Cultivating a brewing family tree. Edmunds says that for the first few decades of Beervana, brewers tended to stay put instead of leaving to start new ones. This gave interlopers like him the opportunity to enter the market with fresh takes. But now, that\u2019s largely changed as longtime Portland brewers such as Whitney Adams have branched off to start their own establishments. \u201cThis influx of new blood keeps the scene vibrant,\u201d Edmunds says. \u201cThese places like Grand Fir, Great Notion, Ruse, and Living H\u00e4us are being opened by people who are experienced and have well-regarded pedigrees from the city and state. And they all make high-quality beer.\u201d<\/p>\n

That doesn\u2019t mean Portland isn\u2019t facing its share of challenges. Real estate prices are skyrocketing. Things are tough for any small business. \u201cBut our resilience is strong,\u201d says Whitney Adams. \u201cWe still support each other. People show up and go out and support these breweries.\u201d<\/p>\n

Edmunds says that\u2019s largely because, after three-plus decades, craft beer is engrained in the culture of Portland and Oregon. People here want beer, need beer, and live beer. This is still Beervana. \u201cThe wildly different thing about Portland is that no one says, \u2018Would you like to get a craft beer with me today?\u2019 You just say, \u2018Let\u2019s go get a beer,\u2019 and it\u2019s a craft beer,\u2019\u201d says Havig. \u201cIt\u2019s normal; it\u2019s what we drink. The reality is, this is where craft beer won.\u201d<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Dubbed Beervana in the 1990s, Portland is still setting the standard for craft beer excellence.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7597,"featured_media":114983,"sticky":true,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"sticky_collection":"","_relevanssi_hide_post":"","_relevanssi_hide_content":"","_relevanssi_pin_for_all":"","_relevanssi_pin_keywords":"","_relevanssi_unpin_keywords":"","_relevanssi_related_keywords":"","_relevanssi_related_include_ids":"","_relevanssi_related_exclude_ids":"","_relevanssi_related_no_append":"","_relevanssi_related_not_related":"","_relevanssi_related_posts":"110337,19986,57198,53821,107983,37606","_relevanssi_noindex_reason":"","inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[4812],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-114981","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-full-pour"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nFinding Beervana in Portland, Oregon - CraftBeer.com<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Dubbed "Beervana" in the 1990s, Portland is still setting the standard for craft beer excellence. 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