{"id":114971,"date":"2025-12-05T08:10:12","date_gmt":"2025-12-05T15:10:12","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.craftbeer.com\/?p=114971"},"modified":"2025-12-05T08:10:15","modified_gmt":"2025-12-05T15:10:15","slug":"beer-cheese-is-having-a-moment","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.craftbeer.com\/full-pour\/beer-cheese-is-having-a-moment","title":{"rendered":"Beer Cheese Is Having a Moment"},"content":{"rendered":"

There are conflicting stories about beer cheese\u2019s golden-orange origins. It appears to have first been served in the 1940s at a restaurant in Clark County, Ky., called Johnny Allman\u2019s<\/a> (since renamed Howard\u2019s Creek<\/a>). In 2006, when Kathy Gorman Archer, president of Howard\u2019s Creek Authentic Beer Cheese, decided to revive the spreadable cheese brand\u2014to widespread acclaim\u2014she said it initially was a sustainable effort: leftover sharp cheddar cheese was a key ingredient, as well as leftover beer.<\/p>\n

\u201cAllman\u2019s love of southwestern flare is probably why there\u2019s cayenne pepper, as well as garlic and other spices, in the recipe to kick it up,\u201d Archer said about the model that has defined beer cheese in the U.S. for over a century. But nowadays, paradigms are shifting, from the tangy, spicy snack to a new category forged by American farmstead cheesemakers, incorporating beer into their cheeses from the start.<\/p>\n

Going Rogue<\/h2>\n
\n
\"Rogue<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

Many have associated Oregon\u2019s Rogue Ales<\/a> with Rogue Creamery<\/a>, though they are related by name only, since the brewery was located only four hours away from the creamery (it announced its closure in November). Every five years or so, Rogue Ales produced an anniversary ale for the cheesemaker, meant to be drunk alongside offerings such as their signature Oregon Blue<\/a>, the first cave-aged cheese west of the Mississippi, established in 1953. Rogue Creamery produces a Chocolate Stout Cheddar<\/a> with Hopworks Brewery<\/a> from Portland, Ore., and has for nearly a decade. This was part of Rogue Creamery\u2019s principle: to pair a certified organic brewery with their organic dairy.<\/p>\n

Marguerite Merritt, cheese emissary and brand manager of Rogue Creamery and a certified sommelier, describes their savory, sweet approach to the polarizing blue cheese style as \u201cnot overpowering, but bitter and strong.\u201d Though this lends itself to cheese boards and salads, as it\u2019s not as intense as a standard Danish blue, it\u2019s Rogue\u2019s innovations, such as their hazelnut shell-and-alderwood cold-smoked version<\/a>, that inevitably found them experimenting in the beer cheese category.<\/p>\n

For the chocolate stout cheddar, the beer is added to the cheesemaking process just as the whey is beginning to separate from the curd, infusing the milk and curd with a nice balance of flavor and subtle maltiness. The cheese doesn\u2019t wind up tasting exactly like the beer, but what it adds is a sweet, malty, and marbled effect. Their chocolate stout cheese turned out to be a jumping off point for crafting Hopyard<\/a>, a cheddar style made with fresh, local Northwest-grown hops. The hops are mixed with curds while setting, similar to the chocolate stout cheddar process, but this time without any beer. It has a strong following and is only sold direct to consumers. \u201cThe floral bitterness of the hops makes it really fun to pair with an IPA in particular,\u201d Merritt said, reinforcing the citrus, pine, and earthy appeal of a West Coast style, but in cheese form.<\/p>\n

\"Fiscalini<\/figure>\n

A Beer Cheese Journey<\/h2>\n

Another West Coast dairy gleaned inspiration from its surrounding beer scene as well. Fiscalini<\/a> has been operating as a dairy farm in Modesto, Calif., since 1914. In 2000, they added a line of farmstead cheeses, mostly cheddars, all made by hand. What sets Fiscalini apart, explains fourth-generation owner Laura Genasci, is that they only use milk produced from their own cows.<\/p>\n

Committed to traceability, Fiscalini Craft Beer Cheddar<\/a> is made with Black Blizzard Imperial Stout from Dust Bowl Brewing<\/a>, headquartered in Turlock, Calif., only 20 minutes down the road. Genasci went to college with one of the owners of the brewery, whose family is in the dairy industry as well. The beer is roasty, with notes of coffee and chocolate, as is the cheese.<\/p>\n

Fiscalini\u2019s beer cheese journey started with Hopscotch, a cheddar made with Scotch ale. Beer was mixed in with the curds before forming them into 40 pound blocks. Pressed overnight\u2014which infuses the beer even further\u2014this process gives the cheese its mottled pattern, and \u201cso you get beer flavor in every single bite,\u201d explains Genasci.<\/p>\n

\u201cWe think about our beer cheddar as a culinary collaboration where the artistic work of brewmasters and cheesemakers collide,\u201d says Alex Borgo, Fiscalini\u2019s cheesemaker. During the beer brewing process, malted barley is mixed with water and heated to activate the enzymes in the grain. Similarly, during the cheesemaking process, Borgo selects a special starter culture for its microbial enzymes that help activate the separation of curds from whey once rennet is added to the milk.<\/p>\n

Many stout beers, such as milk stout, are rich and creamy with a smooth texture, and cheddar cheese is commonly sharp and tangy. \u201cThe combination of the two results in a cheese that is rich, tangy, and malty, with a complex flavor\u2014we age our beer cheddar three months, but the more age the cheese gets, the stronger the cheddar and beer flavors become,\u201d says Borgo. Similarly, for special occasions, Rogue squirreled away some two-year reserve<\/a> for a bigger, more robust flavor, as can be found in a stronger beer.<\/p>\n

Collaboration<\/h2>\n

It\u2019s not all about big beers, though. Giant Food Stores<\/a>, a Pennsylvania grocery chain, propositioned Caputo Brothers Creamery<\/a> in Spring Grove, Pa., to stock its shelves with local beer cheeses. Caputo, which started its artisan cheese business in 2011, only made Italian-style cheeses at the time.<\/p>\n

Giant noted that they\u2019d already been talking with Tr\u00f6egs Independent Brewing as a potential partner, says Caputo Brothers\u2019 co-founder, Rynn Caputo. \u201cIf you drew a line from Tr\u00f6egs to us to Giant\u2019s HQ, the dairy farms sat right in the middle\u2014three [Pennsylvania] businesses trying to make something that would have a direct impact in our region.\u201d Though they had sworn to never make a cheddar, Caputo was willing to try a gouda.<\/p>\n

Troegenator<\/a>, a double bock and Tr\u00f6egs most storied beer, already had a cult following and in the cheese, it brought out a noticeable sweetness and golden color. An entire keg is used for a batch of the cheese<\/a>, which became Tr\u00f6egs\u2019 largest social media hit in 2019.<\/p>\n

\u201cPeople started immediately asking for other beer (cheeses),\u201d says Caputo. They went on to make cheese with Tr\u00f6egs Perpetual IPA<\/a> and then Mad Elf<\/a>, an 11% Belgian holiday ale with notes of cherry, cinnamon, and chocolate. After marinating the curd in an amber pool of the beer, a concoction of cocoa, cinnamon, espresso, and more beer is rubbed into the rind. \u201cThe end result makes for a cheese that looks like a slice of chocolate cake,\u201d says Caputo.<\/p>\n

For the Perpetual beer cheese, Caputo had the idea of dry hopping milk with the same Citra hops that go into the beer, producing an intense hop milk. \u201cIt tastes like you\u2019re eating a beer,\u201d said Caputo. After Caputo salt-water brines the cheese for a couple weeks to help form a rind and preserve the cheese itself, the rinds are sprayed with even more Perpetual IPA. All told, Caputo Brothers uses a case of beer for every 80 wheels produced.<\/p>\n

The real key to working with beer (and cheese) is pH<\/a>, a scale that addresses whether something is acid or base; milk\u2019s pH is around 6.4 to 6.8. Too high a pH (past the low 5s), the curds won\u2019t bind together, while too low (below 4), they\u2019ll get rubbery. Caputo has this process down to such a science that she started a side business called Custom Cheesemakers<\/a>, which makes custom beer cheese for breweries all over the country.<\/p>\n

\n
\"Tulip<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

Although Indianapolis cheesemaker Tulip Tree Creamery<\/a> doesn\u2019t add craft beer to curds, they too customize cheeses by washing the rinds with a combination of bacteria cultures, beer, water, and salt, permeating each wheel with the essence of the chosen brew. Laura Davenport, co-owner and director of education and sales, credits her business partner\u2019s Dutch upbringing for nurturing their washed-rind cheese pursuit.<\/p>\n

Every few weeks, in conjunction with the likes of Sun King<\/a>, Standard Deviant<\/a>, Big Lug<\/a> (highlighting their Pirate Cat porter<\/a>), and Centerpoint<\/a> (using their black porter), Tulip Tree was making a new hops beer cheese<\/a> with another local brewery. Two and half gallons of beer was enough for about 20 to 25 wheels of cheese, each weighing approximately four to five pounds for a double cream style, a departure from the harder cheddar styles mentioned above.<\/p>\n

\u201cI\u2019m a beer drinker, an IPA fan,\u201d Davenport affirms. \u201cI love 3 Floyds Zombie Dust [from Munster, Ind.] \u2026 but for cheese I\u2019m not looking for something super bitter in the 40 to 50 IBU range.\u201d Instead, Davenport suggested 3 Floyds JinxProof<\/a> Pilsner.<\/p>\n

Beer Cheese in the Big City<\/h2>\n

Just over state lines, U<\/a>rban Stead<\/a>, based in downtown Cincinnati, Ohio, opened in 2018. Co-founder Andrea Robbins and her husband are both from Dayton, Ohio, the grandchildren of dairy farmers. They noticed there are fewer than five urban creameries in the United States, a list that includes Perrystead Dairy in north Philadelphia and Beecher\u2019s in Seattle\u2019s Pike Place Market, and they wanted to honor Cincinnati\u2019s deep German roots.<\/p>\n

\u201cEarly German settlers saw the Erie Canal and likened it to the Rhine River, and we really wanted to make quark<\/a>, a fresh Eastern European-style farmer\u2019s cheese,\u201d Robbins said. Although Urban Stead has a following for its Street Ched, an award-winning English-style clothbound cheddar, they decided their first foray into a beer cheese would be a Kentucky style<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Braxton Brewing<\/a>\u2019s Storm Golden Cream Ale<\/a>, from across the border in Covington, Ky.\u2014near where Robbins\u2019 family had a vacation home where she first fell in love with beer cheese\u2014adds a subtle corn and spicy hop presence to the pale straw-yellow mixture. \u201cIt\u2019s kind of the texture of ricotta meets cream cheese\u2014it spreads like pimento, chefs stuff pasta with it, and it\u2019s wonderful for baking.\u201d Robbins even suggests using it in place of mozzarella for a caprese salad or sandwich.<\/p>\n

Because it\u2019s a fresh cheese, there\u2019s no time lost to aging. \u201cWe get 9,000 pounds of milk a week, and use 1,500 pounds for a batch,\u201d says Robbins. Two to three days later, customers get their beer cheese quickly and it helps balance the cash flow perspective from cheddars and goudas, some of which age for 20 months.<\/p>\n

\u201cWe serve it with German Swabian-style soft pretzels at the shop,\u201d states Robbins, who suggests the same golden cream ale it\u2019s made with to wash away any spice left on the tongue, a palate cleanser perhaps. But beer isn\u2019t just meant to wash away flavors; in cheese, it can also be something to savor.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

When brewers and cheesemakers find new ways to collaborate, we all win.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7552,"featured_media":114974,"sticky":true,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"sticky_collection":"","_relevanssi_hide_post":"","_relevanssi_hide_content":"","_relevanssi_pin_for_all":"","_relevanssi_pin_keywords":"","_relevanssi_unpin_keywords":"","_relevanssi_related_keywords":"","_relevanssi_related_include_ids":"","_relevanssi_related_exclude_ids":"","_relevanssi_related_no_append":"","_relevanssi_related_not_related":"","_relevanssi_related_posts":"109328,44834,68470,69003,112405,59708","_relevanssi_noindex_reason":"","inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[4812],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-114971","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-full-pour"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nBeer Cheese Is Having a Moment - CraftBeer.com<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Beer 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