{"id":114822,"date":"2025-09-03T14:50:30","date_gmt":"2025-09-03T20:50:30","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.craftbeer.com\/?p=114822"},"modified":"2025-09-03T14:50:32","modified_gmt":"2025-09-03T20:50:32","slug":"not-just-wine-the-north-fork-becomes-a-beer-destination","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.craftbeer.com\/full-pour\/not-just-wine-the-north-fork-becomes-a-beer-destination","title":{"rendered":"Not Just Wine: The North Fork Becomes a Beer Destination"},"content":{"rendered":"

The North Fork<\/a> is the Napa Valley of the East, a bucolic and bountiful destination for wine, luring New Yorkers to sprawling vineyards throughout the summer and into the fall harvest season. But lately the eastern edge of Long Island is becoming known for more than its cab franc and pinot blanc; it\u2019s earning a reputation for its IPAs, Pilsners, sours, stouts, and more.<\/p>\n

\n
\"blue<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

What started out with Blue Point Brewery<\/a> in 1998 has grown exponentially over the past decade to include award-winning craft breweries such as Greenport Harbor<\/a>, Jamesport Brewery<\/a>, Eastern Front<\/a>, \u00fcbergeek Brewery<\/a>, Twin Fork<\/a>, and North Fork Brewing Company<\/a>. Riding the wave of agrotourism, these breweries are turning out impressive pints that are luring many to step off the wine trail and onto the beer bandwagon.<\/p>\n

“The North Fork is a place known for viticulture, so it\u2019s nice to have a brewing oasis in the middle of wine country,” said Sean Galligan, head brewer at the pioneering Greenport Harbor Brewing, which opened its doors in 2009. The brewery has grown over the past 16 years to include a second location a few miles down the Main Road in Peconic, with a state-of-the-art kitchen, a couple of acres with picnic tables, live music, and lawn games such as giant Jenga and cornhole.<\/p>\n

Galligan brews several flagships, many with New York State-grown malt, including the citrusy American-style Harbor Ale<\/a>, the West Coast-style super hoppy Otherside IPA<\/a>, Lucha Lager<\/a> made with NYS-grown wheat with added sea salt and key limes, the German-style Haus Pils<\/a>, and the rich, toasty Black Duck Porter<\/a>. Seasonal summertime beers still on tap include a hazy New England style IPA called Facing East<\/a>, brewed with Amarillo, Citra, and Simcoe hops; and a super-fresh Beehave Summer Ale<\/a>, a moderately hopped golden ale.<\/p>\n

The area\u2019s local farmland is a boon during late summer and into September when Galligan puts locally harvested Cascade and Willamette hops from Orient Point to work in Greenport Harbor\u2019s limited release fresh hop beer. “The hops are picked early in the morning and brewed with that same day,” he said.<\/p>\n

Something for Everyone<\/h2>\n

“The North Fork is a craft beer destination,” proclaimed Rob Raffa, owner and brewmaster at \u00fcbergeek Brewing<\/a> in Riverhead. “The area is known for wine, but if people in your party want beer or cider or spirits, now they have that too. The breweries came in and are now part of the alcohol trail of the North Fork. It means there\u2019s something for everyone.”<\/p>\n

Raffa, who studied physics and astrophysics in college, named \u00fcbergeek after his home brewery. After many years of experimenting as an amateur brewer, he took a job learning the craft at the former Mustache Brewing in Riverhead. \u201cI don\u2019t regret it,\u201d he said of the left turn his career took. \u201cI love what I do.\u201d<\/p>\n

\n
\"north<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

After four years at Moustache, he departed in 2018 and began co-brewing with former co-worker and North Fork Brewing Company<\/a> founder Peter Barraud, using its production facility to test the waters, leaning into wholesale and direct-to-consumer sales during the pandemic.<\/p>\n

When his former employer at Mustache Brewing closed the brewery in February 2021, he took over their space and officially opened the \u00fcbergeek brewery and taproom the following month. The brewery\u2019s growth has been impressive. Buoyed by the North Fork\u2019s robust agrotourism, \u00fcbergeek has gone from four fermenters to 16 with eight more on the way and will be doubling the size of the brewhouse this winter, which will mean doubling their output. The brewery\u2019s Tasting Room in a former warehouse space hosts a monthly concert series and a variety of food trucks.<\/p>\n

\u00dcbergeek\u2019s beers have off-beat names Raffa says are inspired by middle-of-the night musings. There\u2019s A Casualty of Circumstance, a hazy and citrusy East Coast IPA; a Mexican lager called It\u2019s All Gonna be Fine; and a double IPA with notes of mango and pineapple called Space Age Times, Stone Age Minds.<\/p>\n

“I tend to wake up in the middle of the night in an existential crisis and the beers are named for my state of mind,” said Raffa. “If anyone wants to psychoanalyze me they can just read the names of the beers.”<\/p>\n

Others include Their Morality Has Always Been Subjective, a big 9% ABV beer, and Flirting with Madness Has Its Benefits, a hazy double IPA that\u2019s also high in alcohol with 8.7% ABV. I Thought You Liked a Challenge, an East Coast bright, citrusy, and juice-forward IPA, is their summer ale. “It\u2019s an ode to \u00fcbergeek and the trials of being a business owner.”<\/p>\n

A Symbiotic Relationship<\/h2>\n

“We are riding the coattails of the wine business,” said Peter Chekijian, who founded Twin Fork Beer<\/a> Co. with his twin brother (and fellow musician) Dan. Twin Fork began brewing in 2014 and names its beers after symphonies and elements of musical theory; there\u2019s Minuet Session IPA, Crescendo IPA, Prelude Pilsner, Alto IPA, Sonata K\u00f6lsch-style Ale, and more. “All that tourism brings people from New York and New Jersey. We get people doing bike tours and buses.”<\/p>\n

Breweries don\u2019t see themselves as competing with wineries but rather as complementing them. “It\u2019s a very symbiotic relationship,” said Greenport Harbor\u2019s Galligan. “We have a nice craft wine and beer scene and we coexist really nicely on the North Fork, which is really cool.”<\/p>\n

Many wineries carry local beers, appealing to guests who might prefer suds to sauvignon blanc. Greenport Harbor even collaborates with nearby vineyards; it created a beer called Collaborations conditioned on Carm\u00e9n\u00e8re grapes from Osprey\u2019s Dominion with wild yeast strains. It won silver in the Fruit & Vegetable Beer (Sour) category at the 2024 New York State Craft Beer Competition. “We want to continue to do these sorts of collabs,” said Galligan.<\/p>\n

It\u2019s not just wineries that the brewers lean on, it\u2019s the local farms. “We like to team up with farmers and show a true taste of the area,” said North Fork\u2019s Barraud, who uses Peconic River Herb Farm<\/a>, Herricks Lane Farm<\/a>, and CJ Van Bourgondien Greenhouses<\/a>, as well as local licensed foragers, to add local flavor to his beers. \u201cThe North Fork is so saturated with farms, it has endless produce and niche small-batch ingredients like herbs and spices such as ancho chile. That way the breweries give you a taste of the terroir and the land out here.\u201d<\/p>\n

Barraud rotates 80 beers throughout the year with a core group of three flagships: Run the Juice, a New England-style IPA; Hold Me Closer Tiny Lager, a German Pilsner; and a West Coast IPA called Pierce the Ale. This summer, he created fruited beers using local produce from Lewin Farms<\/a> on Sound Avenue in Calverton, including a  a peach Golden Sour and a passion fruit-infused IPA. There was also a blueberry ale, a strawberry ale, and an ancho chile-infused Pilsner. “It was a fun one, with some heat and sweet smoky flavor.”<\/p>\n

Visitors to the North Fork may be coming for the wine, but they\u2019re returning for the experience that offers more than just grapes. “The area is known for wine, but not everyone who\u2019s here drinks wine,” said \u00fcbergeek\u2019s Raffa. “Some people want beer or cider or spirits. These breweries came in and are now part of the alcohol trail of the North Fork.”<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Long a destination for wine, the eastern edge of Long Island is earning a reputation for its IPAs, Pilsners, sours, stouts, and more.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7605,"featured_media":114829,"sticky":true,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"sticky_collection":"","_relevanssi_hide_post":"","_relevanssi_hide_content":"","_relevanssi_pin_for_all":"","_relevanssi_pin_keywords":"","_relevanssi_unpin_keywords":"","_relevanssi_related_keywords":"","_relevanssi_related_include_ids":"","_relevanssi_related_exclude_ids":"","_relevanssi_related_no_append":"","_relevanssi_related_not_related":"","_relevanssi_related_posts":"35535,10493,66659,73446,58621,100720","_relevanssi_noindex_reason":"","inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[4812],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-114822","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-full-pour"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nNot Just Wine: The North Fork Becomes a Beer Destination - 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