{"id":114429,"date":"2025-02-20T12:38:00","date_gmt":"2025-02-20T19:38:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.craftbeer.com\/?p=114429"},"modified":"2025-02-20T12:38:03","modified_gmt":"2025-02-20T19:38:03","slug":"citrus-sunshine-in-the-cold-winter","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.craftbeer.com\/full-pour\/citrus-sunshine-in-the-cold-winter","title":{"rendered":"Citrus Sunshine in the Cold Winter"},"content":{"rendered":"

Seasonality can shape our romance of local craft beer. The hop harvest in August and September gives us our treasured fresh hop ales, sweeter for their fleeting presence. Simultaneously, some breweries take advantage of pawpaw season (Jackie O\u2019s<\/a>, Upland Brewing Co.<\/a>, and Fullsteam<\/a> all highlight the North American, tropical-flavored tree fruit), while throughout the rest of the year, botanically driven beers reveal what herbs were ready to be harvested or foraged when they were brewed.<\/p>\n

Somewhere along the way, though, one of the best known, widest ranging flavor profiles in beer lost its seasonal ties: citrus. The main harvest window for citrus fruits runs from November to March, so why isn\u2019t that period an anticipated citrus beer season?<\/p>\n

\u201cIf you think of a kid running a lemonade stand, you imagine them wearing a T-shirt and shorts, not a jacket,\u201d says Brooklyn Brewery<\/a> brewmaster Garrett Oliver. Citrus has become somewhat synonymous with summer, with its inherent refreshing qualities, inclusion in beer styles known as easy-drinking thirst-quenchers, and season-less availability for consumers.<\/p>\n

\u201cThe first thought that comes to mind is Belgian-style witbiers and having dried citrus peel ingrained with that recipe and flavor profile,\u201d says Joey Pepper-Mellusi, owner and brewer at New York\u2019s Schenker Beer Company<\/a>. \u201cIt\u2019s probably the first thing people think of when they think of citrus and beer, like, \u2018Oh, citrus, summer beer, witbier.\u2019\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cIt\u2019s become an automatic reaction to think of lighter, brighter flavors when it\u2019s warm out,\u201d says Michael Williams, brand coordinator at Great Lakes Brewing Co.<\/a> in Cleveland. \u201cThen on winter days, it\u2019s colder and darker and people gravitate toward porters, stouts, and winter seasonal beers that reflect the weather.\u201d Plus, Williams explains, while so much of craft beer is rooted in using whatever\u2019s fresh at the time, \u201cwe live in a grocery-store world. Consumers have a bit of a disconnect with when citrus is fresh and in season because they\u2019re seeing oranges in stores year-round.\u201d<\/p>\n

Capturing the Moment<\/h2>\n

For breweries such as Great Lakes, Brooklyn Brewery, and Schenker, though, as well as Arizona Wilderness<\/a>; Smog City City Brewing Co.<\/a> in Torrance, Calif.; and Fort Point Beer Company<\/a> in San Francisco, it\u2019s important to embrace the true seasonality of citrus.<\/p>\n

For Arizona Wilderness head of production Brad Miles and wood cellar manager Nick Pauley, crafting beers around citrus fruits right when they\u2019re harvested creates an unrivaled experience of freshness. They take full advantage of the season: Miles aims for a citrus beer each month, and this year, there will be seven releases from February to May, such as their popular Arizona Dreamsicle Milkshake IPA, Citrus Valley Triple IPA, and the March for Orange Hazy IPA in support of the Arizona chapter of the MS Society, all with Arizona Sweet oranges<\/a>; and the Blood Orange Refuge IPA.<\/p>\n

They balance regular returning staples with new experiments, demonstrating how many styles citrus shines in. Arizona Dreamsicle and Blood Orange Refuge play on what a natural fit citrus is for IPAs, considering how prominent those notes are in many hops\u2019 aromas. They\u2019ve also brewed citrus lagers and classic witbiers such as the Regenerative Desert Wheat<\/a>. Pauley says their Salome saison is made with Meyer lemons from a brewery employee\u2019s grandmother\u2019s tree; other beers highlight tangelos, oranges, limes, yuzus, kumquats, and mandoras, which are orange-mandarin hybrids<\/a>.<\/p>\n

\u201cWhen we\u2019re making these beers in the winter, we\u2019re able to capture the moment when this stuff is at its peak freshness and availability,\u201d Pepper-Mellusi says. He uses lime, mandarin, and yuzu in varying iterations of Schenker\u2019s renowned Glow Up Berliner Weisse series, and feels their flavors shine whether they\u2019re used right after harvesting or frozen at that time to be used later. Once in the beer, citrus boasts staying power, too. \u201cEven three to six months after one of our Glow Ups is packaged, the fruit flavor holds on quite well as opposed to some other fruits that may drop out a bit faster because they don\u2019t have that oil content.\u201d<\/p>\n

Building Relationships<\/h2>\n

Of-the-moment freshness isn\u2019t the only perk of working with citrus in season, says Mike Schnebeck, director of innovation at Fort Point Beer Company. \u201cFocusing on citrus in the wintertime gives you this selection of more interesting varieties \u2026 There are more opportunities to work closely with local farmers and folks that really know these varietals, know when things are ripe and when things are going to be the best, and know the nuances of the fruit.\u201d When you source a flavor such as lemon or lime in the summer, he explains, you\u2019re not looking at many specific details because they\u2019re simply not available\u2014you\u2019re shopping from processed or concentrated options, which can yield more broad, less nuanced flavors.<\/p>\n

The relationships brewers build with their citrus suppliers is a main driver of their using these fruits in season. Schenker\u2019s citrus beers were born out of Pepper-Mellusi\u2019s relationship with Flavors by Bhumi<\/a> in Bordentown, N.J., one of the few United States yuzu growers outside of California.<\/p>\n

\u201cWorking with brewers like Joey is an exciting journey,\u201d says Flavors by Bhumi cofounder Vivek Malik. \u201cThey understand how to let the citrus notes shine in a brew, highlighting yuzu\u2019s natural complexity [brewers describe this as grapefruit brightness, lime tartness, mandarin sweetness, and even some bitter pine]. This collaboration allows us to bring the unique characteristics of yuzu to an entirely new audience.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"dual<\/figure>\n

Arizona Wilderness works primarily with Agritopia<\/a>, five miles from the brewery in Gilbert. \u201cThey grow a certain number of varieties, and we tell them what we want\u2014I heard we bought 85 percent of their citrus last year,\u201d Miles says. When we spoke, he had just handed in his \u201ccitrus forecast\u201d to Agritopia, mapping out what fruits they\u2019d need for what beers. While Miles certainly has fruits in mind, especially for regular Arizona Wilderness rotationals, he and Pauley are open to learning about whatever\u2019s being grown\u2014the great thing about citrus fruits, Pauley notes, is that if it tastes good, it\u2019s likely to work well in beer.<\/p>\n

Agritopia head farmer Kelly Saxer says about seven of their 11 acres are devoted to citrus and other orchard crops. \u201cArizona Sweet oranges are mostly what breweries source for their beer; it\u2019s a good juicing orange,\u201d she says. They also grow navel oranges, mandarins, tangelos, tangerines, pomelos, pink grapefruits, white grapefruits, lemons, and blood oranges, \u201canother one breweries like a lot.\u201d Different varieties are ready for harvest at different times, generally beginning to ripen in November and December and continuing to early March, providing a brewery like Arizona Wilderness with a long season of different fruits for different beers.<\/p>\n

A supplier relationship is also at the heart of Smog City\u2019s Kumquat Saison. Cofounder and brewmaster Jonathan Porter says inspiration struck in 2015 when he and his wife, Smog City cofounder Laurie Porter, rented a house with a big kumquat tree and realized how well the fruit would work in beer. \u201cIt\u2019s delicious and unique in that it doesn\u2019t have segments, and the skin is sweet,\u201d he says. \u201cIt\u2019s marmalade-y and overall pretty tart, kind of phenolic, and complex.\u201d They started making 50-gallon batches using a pound of kumquats per gallon, and could do several batches just from that tree. But then they found a local organization called Food Forward<\/a>, aimed at fighting hunger and preventing food waste through means such as accepting surpluses from personal fruit trees.<\/p>\n

\"dual<\/figure>\n

\u201cThey said the one thing they couldn\u2019t get rid of was kumquats\u2026it was hard to funnel them into food pantry items,\u201d Porter recalls. \u201cThat began our partnership with them.\u201d With kumquats harvested all over LA, Smog City can now brew multiple 500-gallon batches of Kumquat Saison, a beer which, according to the brewery\u2019s marketing specialist Brett Ciccarello, is part of their One Percent for the Planet Initiative. Smog City dedicates 1 percent of sales to environmental nonprofits, with Food Forward being one of the organizations they make beer for, donate to, and volunteer with.<\/p>\n

Part of the Process<\/h2>\n

Working with fresh fruits as opposed to year-round concentrates is a chance for brewers to prove their dedication to these flavors\u2019 seasonality. Some suppliers handle the time-consuming processing of the fruit themselves\u2014for its Yuzu KSA Radler, Fort Point gets juice made by Yuzuco<\/a> from fresh yuzus. The juice\u2019s perks over concentrates are clear, Schnebeck says, in the depth and complexity of the flavors, which even feature some piney-ness.<\/p>\n

Other brewers handle this processing in-house. Miles says they\u2019ve found they need to use all parts of the fruit to represent its complexity, from the sweet juice to the bitter-tinged peel. They use an industrial juicer to cut fruits in half, squeeze them, and discard too-bitter pith so they just have zesty peel. For the same complexity-geared reason, Oliver uses grapefruits in their entirety for Brooklyn Brewery\u2019s non-alcoholic Special Effects Grapefruit IPA.<\/p>\n

At Smog City, the team freezes the kumquats until they\u2019ve got enough for a batch, then they carefully thaw them and use a giant immersion blender to grind them up. What Porter calls a \u201ccoarse puree\u201d of peel, pulp, seeds, and all goes on top of the saison when it\u2019s past its primary fermentation.<\/p>\n

Most brewers tend to add their citrus later in the brewing process because, as Pepper-Mellusi notes, volatile aromas can get lost on the hot side, a waste when you\u2019re working with whole, fresh fruits, especially pricier ones like yuzus. \u201cPutting yuzu in more toward the conditioning stage allows it to go further\u2026and carry through aromatically.\u201d<\/p>\n

For the Cran Orange Wheat at Great Lakes, Williams says their orange also goes in pretty late. \u201cThe puree is going into the whirlpool to prevent volatilizing some of those flavor compounds, and then later we stuff a hop bag with the peel\u2026it creates the perception of real fruit character, with some very light astringency from the peel that\u2019s not too in your face.\u201d<\/p>\n

Keeping the Sun in Your Heart<\/h2>\n

Another challenge in making citrus beers in the winter can be reminding consumers why they want these flavors even if it\u2019s cold out, but this is something made increasingly easy with the reputations these brewers have developed, the strong reception their beers have been met with, and some helpful seasonal connections.<\/p>\n

\n
\"cran<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

The Cran Orange Wheat, for example, is part of a holiday-geared lineup for Great Lakes including their renowned Christmas Ale and a cookie stout. With its wheat beer base, it\u2019s a refreshing way to present citrus for winter, playing on the Christmas tradition of an orange in your stocking and cranberry sauce on the dinner table. The beer itself, Williams says, pairs well with food, especially as a way to cut through and brighten those richer dishes.<\/p>\n

At Fort Point, the team hadn\u2019t even planned a specific season for the Yuzu KSA Radler to be available, but the demand was so great for it upon its debut in June that they decided to make it available in the winter and all year round. Even with colder winters in New York, Pepper-Mellusi observes that some drinkers don\u2019t entirely switch their preferences based on the weather. Just as some breweries make stouts in the summer, breweries who release citrus wheat beers, sours, and K\u00f6lsches in winter instantly become a go-to for the consumers craving those brighter beers in December. That flavor profile, too, can prove transformative in dreary winters that tend to otherwise come with heavier flavors.<\/p>\n

\u201cI feel like humans in general crave citrus in winter months because of the lack of sunshine,\u201d Porter says\u2014even in Southern California. \u201cIf we don\u2019t get [that brightness] from the sun, we get it on the palate.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u201cMy brother Roger and I have a phrase we always use, and that is, \u2018You have to keep the sun in your heart,\u2019\u201d Oliver says. \u201cWe say that to ourselves as we return to cold, dark NYC after two weeks on warm, sunny Mexican beaches in February. So, while a citrus beer isn\u2019t as obvious in winter, they\u2019re still delicious. It\u2019s all about the mindset, and summer is a state of mind.\u201d<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

The main harvest window for citrus fruits runs from November to March, so why isn\u2019t that period citrus beer season?<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6967,"featured_media":114432,"sticky":true,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"sticky_collection":"","_relevanssi_hide_post":"","_relevanssi_hide_content":"","_relevanssi_pin_for_all":"","_relevanssi_pin_keywords":"","_relevanssi_unpin_keywords":"","_relevanssi_related_keywords":"","_relevanssi_related_include_ids":"","_relevanssi_related_exclude_ids":"","_relevanssi_related_no_append":"","_relevanssi_related_not_related":"","_relevanssi_related_posts":"20396,46908,95180,33148,75213,106909","_relevanssi_noindex_reason":"","inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[4812],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-114429","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-full-pour"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nCitrus Sunshine in the Cold Winter - CraftBeer.com<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"The main harvest window for citrus fruits runs from November to March, so why isn\u2019t that period citrus beer season?\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.craftbeer.com\/full-pour\/citrus-sunshine-in-the-cold-winter\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Citrus Sunshine in the Cold Winter\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"The main harvest window for citrus fruits runs from November to March, so why isn\u2019t that period citrus beer season?\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.craftbeer.com\/full-pour\/citrus-sunshine-in-the-cold-winter\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"CraftBeer.com\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/CraftBeers\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2025-02-20T19:38:00+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2025-02-20T19:38:03+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/cdn.craftbeer.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/20250220120519\/kumquat-saison-on-kumquat-background-1200x630-1.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"1200\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"630\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Courtney Iseman\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:creator\" content=\"@craftbeerdotcom\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:site\" content=\"@craftbeerdotcom\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.craftbeer.com\/full-pour\/citrus-sunshine-in-the-cold-winter#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.craftbeer.com\/full-pour\/citrus-sunshine-in-the-cold-winter\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"Courtney Iseman\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.craftbeer.com\/#\/schema\/person\/12edd26831ce307fb62a06bfdbb68950\"},\"headline\":\"Citrus Sunshine in the Cold Winter\",\"datePublished\":\"2025-02-20T19:38:00+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2025-02-20T19:38:03+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.craftbeer.com\/full-pour\/citrus-sunshine-in-the-cold-winter\"},\"wordCount\":2051,\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.craftbeer.com\/full-pour\/citrus-sunshine-in-the-cold-winter#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\/\/cdn.craftbeer.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/20250220120519\/kumquat-saison-on-kumquat-background-1200x630-1.jpg\",\"articleSection\":[\"Full Pour\"],\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\"},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/www.craftbeer.com\/full-pour\/citrus-sunshine-in-the-cold-winter\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/www.craftbeer.com\/full-pour\/citrus-sunshine-in-the-cold-winter\",\"name\":\"Citrus Sunshine in the Cold Winter - 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