{"id":113241,"date":"2023-06-23T09:54:16","date_gmt":"2023-06-23T15:54:16","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.craftbeer.com\/?p=113241"},"modified":"2023-06-23T09:54:28","modified_gmt":"2023-06-23T15:54:28","slug":"transporting-beer-drinkers-back-home-with-middle-eastern-flair","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.craftbeer.com\/full-pour\/transporting-beer-drinkers-back-home-with-middle-eastern-flair","title":{"rendered":"Transporting Beer Drinkers \u2018Back Home\u2019 with Middle Eastern Flair"},"content":{"rendered":"

In a few short years, Zahra Tabatabai has turned a series of homebrewing trials into a brand garnering rave reviews<\/a>, awards<\/a>, and national media coverage<\/a>. The beer industry, restaurant industry, and greater community of beer drinkers seemingly can\u2019t get enough of Back Home Beer<\/a>\u2019s deftly brewed, complex yet easy-drinking offerings, embracing Middle Eastern flavors and ingredients.<\/p>\n

Since launching in the fall of 2021 in Brooklyn, N.Y., the brand\u2019s presence has blossomed all over New York City as well as Washington D.C., but for now, remains a one-person operation. Back Home\u2019s momentum is little surprise, however, considering how dedicated Tabatabai is to craft beer, her Iranian heritage, and building community.<\/p>\n

\u201cOne time when [Tabatabai] dropped off some cases, people at the bar were clapping for her,\u201d says Christa Sobier, owner of Brooklyn beer bar and bottle shop Beer Witch<\/a>. \u201cI said to her, \u2018Is that normal?\u2019 She laughed and said, \u2018No!\u2019 This is how much people love her. When there\u2019s a new release of her beer, people are outside waiting for us to open so they can get some.\u201d<\/p>\n

Back Home may have launched in 2021, but its roots stretch decades into the past. Born from Tabatabai\u2019s mission to recreate her grandfather\u2019s homebrewed beer so treasured by her family, Back Home brings to life not only Iranian and Middle Eastern ingredients and flavors, but the communal joy of brewing beer and bonding with one another over beer, a joy taken away in Iran after the revolution in 1979, after which alcohol was banned.<\/p>\n

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Back Home\u2019s story\u2014which is also Tabatabai\u2019s story\u2014begins before this revolution. Her father grew up in Tehran and her mother in Shiraz; both came to the United States for university and had intentions of returning to Iran to get married and have a family there. The revolution took place while they were still students in America, and the Iran they had known drastically changed.<\/p>\n

\u201cThey outlawed so much,\u201d Tabatabai says. \u201cDancing, playing music outside, alcohol\u2026women had to be covered. It went from being a completely free country to being so oppressed, with so many rules and regulations on people\u2019s bodies and freedoms.\u201d Her parents started their family in the States, settling in Atlanta, with special attention paid to maintaining Iranian culture and traditions in their home. Tabatabai\u2019s grandparents immigrated to the States as well. Her grandfather died when she was a toddler, and she got to know this beloved family member through stories.<\/p>\n

\u201cHe was this larger-than-life man everybody knew in the community; he was the beer maker and the winemaker,\u201d Tabatabai says. \u201cHe hosted people at his house and would try these different concoctions. They were in southern Iran, where the weather is very hot and humid. It\u2019s great for growing cherries and oranges and lots of fruits and herbs. He would use things from his garden in his beer and wine.\u201d It wasn\u2019t until a few years ago, though, that her grandmother specifically commented on wishing she could enjoy his ab jo<\/em> (Persian for beer) again.<\/p>\n

Past Becomes Present<\/h2>\n

The wish became a sort of challenge for Tabatabai. Brooklyn-based by this point, Tabatabai was a freelance journalist who had worked at ESPN. She had no professional connection to beer, but the connection she did have is perhaps more important. Not only did she like to drink beer and visit breweries on her travels, but she understood the accessibility of the beverage and the way it was loved around the world across cultures.<\/p>\n

\u201cAt home, I don\u2019t remember there ever being liquor or wine. It was always beer for my family. And that\u2019s kind of why I love beer, too. It\u2019s accessible and anyone who is poor or rich, it doesn\u2019t matter\u2026anyone can drink beer. Black, white, Asian; everybody loves beer. It\u2019s consumed most widely in the world in terms of alcohol.\u201d<\/p>\n

How, though, does a seasoned journalist dive into the complexities of brewing in order to bring a relative\u2019s memories to life? One important skill set helped: Tabatabai had grown up joining her relatives in the kitchen, learning to craft different Iranian dishes with love and how to use various Middle Eastern ingredients. The relationship with flavors, aromas, and how different components work together provided a valuable foundation for brewing. Building on that, Tabatabai watched YouTube videos, picked up classes at NYC homebrew shop Bitter & Esters<\/a>, and joined Brooklyn homebrewing club Brewminaries<\/a>. As Tabatabai continued to learn, hone her craft, and tinker with recipes, she\u2019d share the fruits of her labor with family.<\/p>\n

\u201cThey would tell me if they loved it or hated it or what tasted familiar or what I could change about it,\u201d she recalls. \u201cIt was a really a fun project. It would bring up stories about my grandfather. My grandmother would taste something that would ignite a memory.\u201d<\/p>\n

At first, Tabatabai simply valued this bonding her beer fueled, but as brewers began to try and commend her barberry sour through beer swaps, her confidence began building. And the desire to embrace Middle Eastern ingredients in beer evolved into the realization that this brewing hobby could be an impactful business, prompting Tabatabai\u2019s decision to go all in on Back Home Beer in 2021.<\/p>\n

An Expanding World<\/h2>\n

It\u2019s no secret that the craft beer industry has long been lacking in inclusivity, diversity, and representation. As Tabatabai points out, beer is universal, yet the people making craft beer in the United States too often don\u2019t reflect this\u2014therefore neither do the actual ingredients and flavors in the beer. As the industry starts moving forward with more inclusive hiring, it makes sense for it to open up with beer styles and flavor profiles, too, fully welcoming all people with all palates. Fixating on North American and Eurocentric styles for nearly all of American craft beer\u2019s lifespan has resulted in Middle Eastern flavors being absent from the conversation here.<\/p>\n

Some responses Tabatabai has received when people find out about Back Home Beer is the immediate assumption that this is \u201cMuslim beer,\u201d and questions as to how such a thing can exist when Muslims don\u2019t consume alcohol. Back Home Beer isn\u2019t affiliated with religion, and reactions like these stem from sweeping generalizations. In fact,, as Tabatabai notes, people in the region surrounding what is today Iran invented <\/em>beer. The earliest evidence we have of brewing beer<\/a> is from over 2,500 years ago in modern-day Iraq and Iran. Forty years of an alcohol ban in Iran and a lack of diversity in American craft beer cannot erase thousands of years of brewing tradition; this is what Back Home Beer highlights.<\/p>\n

Most reactions to Back Home are overwhelmingly positive, though, with people of Middle Eastern heritage embracing familiar flavors right alongside others who embrace learning<\/em> about these flavors. Tabatabai says the intention with Back Home has never been to only fulfill a small niche, to only be \u201cthat Middle Eastern beer.\u201d Rather, she is exploring classic craft styles and expanding on what they can be, making lagers, goses, and IPAs stand out with the inspiration of Middle Eastern ingredients.<\/p>\n

A crisp, refreshing lager is made just a bit complex with the addition of Persian blue salt, an idea born from Tabatabai\u2019s father and other people she noticed in the Middle East sprinkling salt into their lagers. Just as with food, she says, it works to enhance the beer\u2019s other flavors, like the grain\u2019s sweetness. A gose, too, becomes more layered with sumac and sour cherries\u2014reflecting the wild ones that grow throughout Iran and the tradition of eating them, salted, with rice. The gose marries that tartness, sweetness, and saltiness with a hint of savoriness from the sumac. These beers pair as well with Middle Eastern food as with any other cuisine and can be enjoyed anywhere by anyone. They\u2019re a natural teaching tool for introducing beer drinkers to these ingredients, whether they\u2019ve experienced them before in food or not.<\/p>\n

Ahead of the Pack<\/h2>\n

Back Home has captivated craft beer connoisseurs while simultaneously breaking out of the craft beer pack to appear on the menus of not only Middle Eastern restaurants, but Korean, Mexican, American farm-to-table, and oyster-and-cocktail spots. Co-founder of in-demand Brooklyn destination Cool World<\/a>, Julian Brizzi was turned onto Back Home by Ally Marrone, the bar director at sister restaurant Grand Army Bar<\/a>, and says they\u2019re proud to serve the brand at both spots. At Dame<\/a>, an English seafood eatery in Manhattan where you\u2019d be lucky to snag a table, manager Megan Higgins calls Tabatabai \u201can absolute master at her craft,\u201d saying \u201cthe Sumac Gose strikes a perfect balance of tangy and fruity, with really subtle hop aromas and a slightly higher saline streak than you would find in most goses. [It] pairs really well with Dame\u2019s staple dishes\u2026but honestly, I would crush more than one sitting outside on a warm spring day.\u201d<\/p>\n

For Christopher Struck, beverage director at NYC- and DC-based Lebanese restaurant ilili<\/a>, Back Home\u2019s message is as compelling as its beer\u2019s quality. \u201cBack Home Beer is a good beer that does good for our society by offering better representation and diversity, both at and on the table. Zahra has given us something compelling to drink at a time when looking to the past may be comforting, but looking to the future will require something radically different.\u201d<\/p>\n

With this upward trajectory, extending both within craft beer and beyond in the hospitality and dining scenes, what does the future look like for Back Home Beer? Since launching, Tabatabai has been contract brewing at Staten Island\u2019s Flagship Brewing Co<\/a>., a relationship she treasures for how hands-on she can be but also how she can trust her beer is being cared for whenever she can\u2019t be there. As strong as the partnership is, though, recent media recognition and demand from restaurants, bars, and retail have made Tabatabai think about next steps. The founder has begun raising money with the plan of securing a production facility in Brooklyn, where, importantly, there will be a taproom.<\/p>\n

\u201cThere will be street food from Iran that will go well with the beer\u2026and it will just be a place for the community to come. It\u2019s tough right now because so many people reach out like, \u2018Where can I get the beer?\u2019 and I have to direct them everywhere else. Which is great, but I also want to be able to say, \u2018Come to me. You have a place to come at Back Home.\u2019\u201d<\/p>\n

Until then, Tabatabai creates community even without a physical space, through each beer and her own passion for highlighting its ingredients. Sobier says the first time Beer Witch tapped Persian Blue Lager, the Back Home founder came to the bar with homemade roasted pistachios with lemon and sumac, sharing with each patron.<\/p>\n

Beer lovers can simply crack open a can of Back Home beer to not only experience a delicious beverage, familiar in its well-executed style and exciting in its fresh flavors\u2014it\u2019s also an ode to memories, family, and freedom, and an instant emotional and sensory journey back home.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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