{"id":106516,"date":"2019-12-02T10:05:35","date_gmt":"2019-12-02T17:05:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.craftbeer.com\/?p=106516"},"modified":"2019-12-13T13:16:13","modified_gmt":"2019-12-13T20:16:13","slug":"two-ancient-american-beers-light-a-new-path-at-dos-luces-brewery","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.craftbeer.com\/featured-brewery\/two-ancient-american-beers-light-a-new-path-at-dos-luces-brewery","title":{"rendered":"Two Ancient American Beers Light a New Path at Dos Luces Brewery"},"content":{"rendered":"

Judd Belstock wants to expand the way Americans think about beer.<\/p>\n

\u201cIf conquest had gone the other way, we\u2019d have 150 different categories for chicha and one for European beers,\u201d says Belstock, co-founder and brewer for Denver\u2019s Dos Luces Brewery<\/a>. Dos Luces specializes in the indigenous Central and South American beer styles of chicha and pulque. Most beer drinkers haven\u2019t even heard of these styles\u2014and if they\u2019ve heard of chicha, it\u2019s likely connected to sensational stories about the role of mastication in the beer\u2019s production.<\/p>\n

Chicha is made with corn, and until about half a century ago, the starches in that corn were converted into fermentable sugars through the enzymatic work of human saliva. That\u2019s no longer the case, but Belstock still gets asked if he chews the corn for his beers. His typical response epitomizes his sardonic sense of humor.<\/p>\n

\u201cNo, but I\u2019ll spit in your beer for a dollar.\u201d<\/p>\n

\"\"
Dos Luces Brewery was founded not only to preserve the heritage of chicha and pulque, but to establish both as distinctly American styles. It opened in Denver\u2019s South Broadway neighborhood in 2018. (Credit: Pirie Associates)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/p>\n

Reclaiming America\u2019s Ancient History<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Dos Luces Brewery was founded not only to preserve the heritage of chicha and pulque, but to establish both as distinctly American styles. The brewery was founded by Belstock and Sam Alcaine, professor of fermentation science at Cornell University. It opened in Denver\u2019s South Broadway neighborhood in 2018.<\/p>\n

\u201cOur mission is to change the way people think about beer,\u201d explains Belstock. \u201cWe want to use American ingredients and styles from before European conquest and make them a part of everyday beer culture in the United States.\u201d<\/p>\n

Belstock spent over a decade working for Coors and then Miller followed by three years at Boulder Beer Company before starting Dos Luces. His interest in ancient American beers initially came from his father.<\/p>\n

\u201cMy goal eventually is that if you walk into a great beer bar with a lot of taps and they don\u2019t have a chicha and a pulque on draft, they\u2019re doing it wrong.”<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

\u201cMy dad was living in Peru in the late \u201860s while serving in the Peace Corp, and he drank a lot of chicha and told me about it when I was growing up,\u201d he explains. \u201cWhen he was having a beer, he\u2019d pour a little out for [Incan goddess] Pachamama, which is the tradition in Peru.\u201d<\/p>\n

Alcaine is the son of Salvadoran and Cuban immigrants, and, as Belstock explains, specializes in \u201cfermenting things that are not intended to be fermented.\u201d The two tried their first pulque together when they found a can in a liquor store in Chicago while both were working for Miller.<\/p>\n

\u201cIt was pretty bad,\u201d Belstock says with a laugh, but it got the wheels turning.<\/p>\n

Pulque, a Priestly Aztec Drink<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Pulque is an ancient Aztec drink brewed with corn and sap from the maguey plant, a type of agave. The drink was a sacred beverage in Aztec culture.<\/p>\n

\u201cPulque was reserved for the priesthood and for special ceremonies,\u201d explains Belstock. \u201cIt was considered a gift from the gods. If you were about to be sacrificed, you got two cups of it before you went.\u201d<\/p>\n

Despite being brewed for thousands of years, pulque nearly went extinct in its homeland. The Austrian colonists who took over Mexico during the American Civil War actively disparaged the drink and made it all but illegal. Fortunately, the drink has seen a resurgence over the last five years in Mexico.<\/p>\n

\u201cPulquerias have been popping up in Mexico City the way craft breweries have here,\u201d says Belstock.<\/p>\n

In addition to the Colorado blue corn malted for Dos Luces by nearby Grouse Malt House<\/a>, the brewery uses maguey sap from Villa de Patos<\/a> farm in Mexico. To harvest maguey sap, the farm cuts a hole in the bottom of the plant and collects the sap overnight. Over about 30 days, this will yield enough sap for one batch of pulque at Dos Luces. This slow collection process brings a good deal of native microflora along with it, and the brewery has harvested its house bacterial culture from the sap.<\/p>\n

Chicha, the Peruvian Homebrew<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Malted blue corn forms the base of the brewery\u2019s Chicha as well, and the malting process provides enzymes that make it unnecessary to use human spit to brew the beverage. Chicha is an ancient Incan beer from Peru, and while it had a ceremonial role much like pulque, it wasn\u2019t reserved for the elites.<\/p>\n

\u201cIt\u2019s never been that uncommon to brew chicha in the home,\u201d explains Belstock. \u201cIt was much more of a common person\u2019s drink.\u201d<\/p>\n

That homebrewing heritage protected chicha from the extinction pulque nearly suffered.<\/p>\n

\u201cChicha never really went away,\u201d reports Belstock. \u201cIt\u2019s just been limited to the mountains primarily and made mostly in people\u2019s homes. Since the time of the Inca, you would put a flag in front of your house indicating that you had chicha available for sale.\u201d<\/p>\n

While historical chicha used the notorious chewing method for acquiring conversion enzymes, techniques have modernized. Belstock says even traditional homebrewers in Peru are using sprouted or malted corn now.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Making chicha and pulque part of our American drinking culture requires public education, and that often happens one drinker at a time. (Fermentable Sugar)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/p>\n

From Ancient Beverage to Modern Beer<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Belstock is passionate about helping people appreciate the long history of chicha and pulque, both of which are a bit sour and mildly spiced.<\/p>\n

\u201cWith both of these beverages, the history goes back at least 3,000 years based on pot shard evidence,\u201d he says. \u201cBut the Inca and the Aztec don\u2019t go back that far. There were cultures that predated both of those cultures that made beers from corn and maguey, respectively.\u201d<\/p>\n

While that history is rich and worthy of attention, he stresses the importance of not treating these styles as mere historical artifacts or quaint diversions.<\/p>\n

\u201cWhen we treat these as curiosities and historical anachronisms, then that pigeonholes them. It makes them interesting other things rather than being part of our culture, which they should be.\u201d<\/p>\n

Making these beers part of our American drinking culture requires public education, and that often happens one drinker at a time. A lot of people who walk into Dos Luces have never heard of the beer styles they produce.<\/p>\n

\u201cWe have a lot of people who come in and just see the word \u2018brewery\u2019 and don\u2019t know what we\u2019re doing,\u201d says Belstock. \u201cThey\u2019ll come in and say, \u2018I\u2019ll have the IPA.\u2019 Well, we don\u2019t have an IPA, but let me tell you about what we do here. There are a few who will walk out at that point, but most people who try it do like it.\u201d<\/p>\n

He says the experience people have inside the taproom is generally superior to those tasting the beers elsewhere, because the education component is so important. He also leads educational tasting classes to increase public understanding of his beers.<\/p>\n

\u201cMy goal eventually is that if you walk into a great beer bar with a lot of taps and they don\u2019t have a chicha and a pulque on draft, they\u2019re doing it wrong,\u201d he says.<\/p>\n

Dos Luces has also collaborated with other Latinx-owned breweries likes Atrevida<\/a> and Border X<\/a> to bring attention to these and other Latin American brewing traditions.<\/p>\n

Doc Luces: Two Lights<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Belstock\u2019s chicha is named Inti after the Incan god of the sun. His pulque is named Metzli after the Aztec god of the moon. Those two lights, or \u201cdos luces,\u201d are guides for this brewery making ancient beers for a modern audience.<\/p>\n

\u201cThose are the two lights in our name, but we also like to say the light of the past is showing the way for the light of the future,\u201d Belstock reflects. \u201cWe\u2019re taking inspiration from the past to create something entirely new.\u201d<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Dos Luces Brewery was founded not only to preserve the heritage of chicha and pulque, but to establish both as distinctly American styles.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":5961,"featured_media":106528,"sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"sticky_collection":"","_relevanssi_hide_post":"","_relevanssi_hide_content":"","_relevanssi_pin_for_all":"","_relevanssi_pin_keywords":"","_relevanssi_unpin_keywords":"","_relevanssi_related_keywords":"","_relevanssi_related_include_ids":"","_relevanssi_related_exclude_ids":"","_relevanssi_related_no_append":"","_relevanssi_related_not_related":"","_relevanssi_related_posts":"","_relevanssi_noindex_reason":"","inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[11],"tags":[4296],"class_list":["post-106516","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-featured-brewery","tag-breweries"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nTwo Ancient American Beers Light a New Path 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